There is a store in Palermo unlike any other called Quir, a place of love defying any convention. The owners are Massimo and Gino, who have been together for forty-two years, perhaps the longest-lasting gay couple in Italy. Their small leather goods store has become an important meeting place of the local LGBTQI+ scene – here people chat about their love stories or seek advice – fighting for acceptance in Sicily, a stronghold of patriarchal culture.

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